Closing an In-Ground Pool in the Fall
Unfortunately, it’s getting to be that time of year again. You’ve started thinking about closing your inground pool, and you’re wondering: Is this something I can do yourself? You bet! But, to get it done right, there are a few steps you should follow. Make sure you’ve got your winter closing supplies, and then you can get started.
There’s just a few differences between aboveground and inground pool closings. If you have an above ground pool, be sure to check out our blog post on How to close an Above Ground Pool.
There are a few misconceptions and no-nos we should clear up first.
The best way to keep water from collecting on my cover is to just put an auto-pump on it and leave it there all winter. Hmmmm, in theory, that’s a GREAT idea, but winter covers are not water proof. Water can still seep through the cover into the pool. Likewise, water can be pulled out of the pool through the cover. So, it stands to reason if you put an auto-pump on the pool all winter long, at some point it will start to pull the pool water through the pump and out of your pool. This is not good. Periodic removal of water is best, or using an EZ Drain Winter Cover instead of a traditional pool cover.
It’s better to deal with a green pool in the spring than worry about clearing it up now. Nope, not really. This may come as a surprise to you, but if you close it green it will be green when you open it. And, because it will be warm when you open your pool, it’s going to take even more chemicals to clear it. The warmer water uses up chemicals more quickly than at cooler temperatures. Chances are it will be even MORE green than when you closed it. Algae can live in water as cold as 60 degrees farenheit. So, bring your water into your local pool company for a water test (we offer FREE water testing at all of our locations), get the chemicals you need, and close your pool looking good. You’ll appreciate it in the spring when you open to a clean pool instead of a green pool.
I can use a shop vac to blow out the lines on my inground pool. Sure, you can, but it won’t be strong enough. To be absolutely sure you’ve gotten all the water out of your pool lines, it’s best to have a pool professional come out and blow the lines for you. They should have a commercial grade blower that packs a TON of power and to get your lines clear. Like us, many pool companies guarantee this service and if it’s not done right, you could be spending $1000’s of dollars to repair your pool & lines.
If you’ve got more questions on in-ground pool closings, you can post a comment below or just give us a call.
Step 1 – Repair All Leaks. Covering a pool that has a leak could cause unrepairable damage to the liner. Yikes! That’ll be expensive.
Step 2 – Balance Chemicals. Not balancing your pool water prior to closing will allow the water to become very corrosive at lower water temperatures. This can cause damage to the pool surface and equipment. Take your water into your local pool dealer for a water test. Find a Zagers near you!
Step 3 – Brush, vacuum and clean – Be sure to thoroughly clean all pool surfaces and the waterline. Cleaning the waterline will help prevent permanent discoloring.
Step 4 – Remove equipment – Remove ladders, auto vacs, skimmer weir or door, flow control flap, and skimmer basket. Store these items where they will not be exposed to the harsh conditions of winter weather.
Step 5 – Add Winter Shock – Winter Shock oxidizes wastes, keeps pool surfaces clean, helps prevent algae growth and other problems that can occur over the winter months. Winter Shock is specially designed to work within lower water temperatures and conditions found in closed swimming pools. Run the pump and filter for several hours to circulate the water.
Step 6 – Add Winter Algaecide – Algaecide should be added directly to pool water around the edge of the pool. Run the pump and filter for several hours to circulate the water.
Step 7 – Lower Water Level – If you are using an Aqua Seal the water level only needs to be lowered to the lower of the two waterline marks on your skimmer faceplate. If you’re having your lines blown by a pool professional, typically you only need to lower the water to 1″ below the skimmer opening. If you’re doing it yourself, it’s always safer to lower the water several inches below the skimmer and return openings (or jets).
Step 8 – Put on Skimmer Cover – If you are using an Aqua Seal, snap on the lid or seal to the faceplate of your skimmer. Go around the edges to make sure it is on tight. You can also lube around the edges to get a tighter seal.
Step 9 – Take out all your return (or jet) eyeballs – Remove the return (or jet) face plate, eyeball and inner connector. If you are having any trouble removing the inner connectors, use the tool included with your return (or jet) plugs to loosen.
Step 10 – Blow the returns – Again, we HIGHLY recommend having this done by a pool professional. However, if you want to try it on your own, here’s what to do. Hook up the blower to the bottom of the skimmer (below the skimmer basket) and turn the handle on your filter to recirculate. If you don’t have recirculate on your filter, just leave it in the filter position. Turn on the blower. Water and air should start coming out of the jets. The jet that has the most water and air should be capped or plugged first. It’s typically the one closest to the pump and filter. After you are certain only air is coming out of the return (or jet), twist in the plug. Then continue around the pool until all of the returns (or jets) have been plugged. Your last one should be the one furthest from the pump and filter.
Step 11 – Blow the Main Drain – The blower should still be hooked up to the pool. Change the filter handle position to close. If you don’t have this position, just leave it in filter or recirculate. Make sure the main drain valve is open. Air will come out of the drains on the bottom of the pool. Let this continue for close to 5 minutes and then close the valve on the main drain. Turn off and disconnect the blower.
Step 12 – Add Antifreeze – After the blower has been disconnected from the skimmer, pour 2 gallons of pool anti-freeze down the hole. It’s important you use pool anti-freeze and not standard anti-freeze. Pool anti-freeze is rated to much lower temperatures than standard anti-freeze. Move the filter handle to the filter position and uncap the last jet capped. Hook the blower back up to the skimmer and turn it on. Run until you see the anti-freeze coming out of the return (or jet). Cap the return (or jet) and shut off the blower. Pour another 3/4 gallon of pool anti-freeze into the skimmer.
Step 13 – Install the Gizzmo – Thread the gizzmo into the hole at the bottom of the skimmer. The gizzmo will take pressure from ice instead of your skimmer and prevent breakage. Once the gizzmo is in place, pour the remaining 1/4 gallon of pool antifreeze into the skimmer.
Step 14 – Winterize the pump and filter – Take all plugs out of the pump, typically there are 2-3 plugs in each pump. For a SAND FILTER – take the plug out of the bottom of the tank so water can drain out. For a D.E. FILTER – remove the grids, clean thoroughly and inspect for tears or stretching. If you need to, now is a good time to replace any grids that have been torn or stretched. Clean the inside of the filter tank, reinstall the grids or store separated until spring away from winter weather.
Step 15 – Winterize the Heater – Start by turning off the pilot light and closing the main valve to the heater. Remove the plug and drain out the water. To be extra safe, it’s always a good idea to use compressed air to blow the water out. Be sure to disconnect the pressure switch and check the original owners manual for any other details relating to winterizing.
Step 16 – Protect your Pool Chemicals – Do you have chemicals left over from the swimming season? It’s always a good idea to store them in a cool, dry place where theywon’t freeze. Also, be careful to store them away from metals, lawn mowers, cars, paints, thinners, gasoline, kerosene, snowblowers, oil and other volatile materials.
Step 17 – Clean & Store your Solar Cover – Protect your solar cover by cleaning it before putting it away for the winter. You can use Bioguard Stow-Away to clean it and then put on a protective layer for storing. This will help keep mice and other rodents from damaging and nesting inside your solar cover. DO NOT STORE IN WATER.
Okay, so now that all of that is d-o-n-e, it’s time to put on the winter cover.
First, position the cover so the colored side is up and the black side is down. The colored side has UV protection on it. Position it evenly on the water with about 1 ft of cover off of the pool.
Next, add weight. Position your water tubes prior to filling. Water tubes should be placed end to end all the way around the pool on the edge of the cement and cover to hold it in place. Fill only 1/2 way to allow for expansion from freezing. Typically, winter cover warranties do not apply to wind damage. It’s your responsibility to make sure it’s secure from blowing up and off the pool. Water tube chart for pools
Safety Covers, Twist the grommets on your pool deck up by 1/2″ and position the cover in the right direction and attach springs to the grommets. Using a safety cover tool, you can pull the springs over the grommets. Make sure you do this all the way around the pool. If your springs are less than 1/2 compressed, you should tighten up the straps. Otherwise, this should be good from your initial install of the safety cover. Hint: If you lowered your water to below the jets, you’ll need to add water to the pool to the just below the skimmer. Pools with safety covers do not have to be drained as far down as pools without safety covers.
Lastly, install the leaf net. Leaf Nets will make spring clean up easy. It’ll catch all the leaves, sticks and other debris before getting settled in the winter cover and frozen in the ice. Be sure to remove the leaf net PRIOR TO THE FIRST SNOW FALL. Then you can put it back on in the spring, prior to opening.
So, THAT’S IT! You’ve closed your pool and your ready for the winter months. BUT, before you go, here’s just a few things I’d like you to know:
- REMEMBER – clean pool in fall = clean pool in spring
- NO CHLORINE AFTER COVERING – you want chemicals circulating with the cover off
- CHECK YOUR COVER – once in a while, walk around and check your cover for areas of stress. You may need to get some water off.
If I’ve missed anything or if you have a question, just let us know. We’re happy to help!
Or, you could call Zagers for professional pool closing service at your convenience.